Well, I did it! I finished spring top #3 before the deadline of 8 p.m. tonight.
Of course, today is gray and rainy, so the pictures are not the best, but what really matters is making a top that I think is super cute, and pulling off some pattern alterations that make this latest Sorbetto completely different from my first two Sorbettos. Like I mentioned last time, I thought this fabric would look cute in a Simplicity pattern that I have, but it’s in storage, so I can’t even tell you the number! Necessity is the mother of invention, so what I did was cut a yoke off the Sorbetto, remove the pleat from that piece, and add 1/2” seam allowance at my new seam. Then for the bottom front piece, I gathered the extra fabric across the middle half, choosing endpoints that I thought looked good.
I ended up omitting the dart because the fabric is really thin and I thought the dart would show through to the right side, plus with the gathers here, it is sort of unnecessary. I mention this because it meant that my armholes did not line up; if you try this, omit the dart from the pattern before you cut the fabric!
As far as construction, I did it the way my Simplicity top suggests. Briefly,
- Finish the neck seam on the back piece with bias facing.
- Cut 2 yoke pieces and sew them together at the neckline, right sides together.
- Turn inside out and press. Optionally, stitch the seam down to the back side; this keeps it in place and makes the neckline lie flat.
- Sandwich the shoulder seam of the back piece between the 2 pieces of the yoke, right sides together. This is spatial reasoning at its finest. When turned right side, out, the whole seam is enclosed; it’s the awesomest seam finish ever. It’s really hard to describe it; I wish I’d taken a picture!
- Gather the lower front piece to fit the yoke. Match RST with the front piece of the yoke and sew.
- Press the back side of the yoke under 1/2” so it will sandwich the seam you just made. Pin in place and topstitch from the front, making sure to catch the back piece also, and making sure the seam is pressed upward so it becomes enclosed.
- Sew side seams and it’s done!
Although you can’t see it in the pictures, the cool thing about this shirt is the way there are no exposed seams anywhere, except the sides. Well-finished seams make for a really professional-looking garment! You can’t see it when it’s being worn, but as the wearer, you notice it every time you put it on. It’s not a fitted style of shirt, but this fabric is so breezy that I think it makes for a nicely draped top.
This fabric is so lightweight it is like wearing nothing at all. The total opposite of my sackcloth linen shirt! It will be perfect for those hot summer days we get here in Rochest…wait. We don’t really get any. But it’ll be perfect for those steamy Seatt…no. Not there either. Good thing it looks nice with a cardigan!
Please excuse the freshly showered look… this is what happens when you wait till the last minute!